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If you want a quick hack for the move, try calling your credit card company and asking for a limit increase. Sometimes they’ll approve it even with rough credit if you’ve had the account for a while. That way, your utilization drops instantly without paying anything down. Just don’t use the new...

Another option is to spread out your purchases across multiple cards if you’ve got them. That way no single card looks maxed out. Even if you’re spending the same amount, it looks way better across three cards than just hammering one at 100%.

I filed Chapter 13 in 2019 and finished last year. My credit score bounced from 530s up to 690 in about 12 months after discharge, just by getting a secured card and a credit-builder loan. You’ll feel stuck now, but the rebound can actually be faster than you think once you’re done.

One wrinkle: If your utility lets you preload through Plastiq or PayPal, you can sometimes get them coded differently. I’ve had electricity code as online service before and earned 3x with Amex Green. So it depends how deep you wanna game the system.

Hot take: You don’t NEED a car in Houston if you WFH and only go out occasionally. Uber + occasional rental might cost less than monthly car note + insurance + maintenance. Do the math. Sometimes owning isn’t worth it after a repo.

One thing to consider: your oldest card is super important. Closing that one will shrink your credit history. If any of the 4 you paid off are your oldest, I’d definitely keep them open. Maybe close a newer one if you have to shut one down. But the age of accounts is like 15% of your score.

I haven’t bought a manual, but I joined a private FB group where they share free PDFs, dispute templates, and compliance guides. Honestly, I learned more in there than any book. Might be worth checking groups before paying for something.

I use three cards mainly because of accounting software integrations. QuickBooks lets me categorize based on card activity, so it helps me stay organized. Plus, having multiple cards reduces fraud risk. If one gets compromised, I don’t have to stop operations. Happened twice already.

If you’re sitting at 645–670 already, you’re not in a terrible place. You’re in the fair bucket. With another year or two of clean history and lower utilization, you’ll probably creep into the 700s. That’s enough for a decent mortgage rate, especially if you’re going FHA or VA. Conventional...

If you’ve read conflicting info, it’s because policies have shifted over the years. Early on, some folks only got soft pulls, but since about 2020, it’s been almost exclusively hard inquiries for new credit lines.

One card and a credit builder loan from a local credit union was my winning combo. The card helped with utilization, and the loan added installment account variety.

The reps will almost always say it’s impossible to remove a late. But remember, impossible”just means they’re not empowered to do it. That’s why people suggest escalating to a manager or the executive office. Sometimes it takes being annoying in a polite way.

Replying to u/creditconfusion88...... Yep i had the same issue. They disputed EVERYTHING on my report, including the accurate stuff. It made my credit file look sketchy because suddenly it was filled with ongoing disputes. Some lenders won’t approve you if too many items are in dispute.

My credit was destroyed in my early 20s. When I applied for an apartment last year, I included a letter explaining why my score was low and what I had done to fix it. The manager said that letter helped sway them to approve me.

If you do decide to move forward, avoid luxury brands for now. BMW, Mercedes, Audi.....they’re way less forgiving with credit history. Toyota, Hyundai, Kia are usually more flexible. Plus, their lease specials are generally better for people trying to rebuild.

I stuck with personal cards because business cards don’t always report to personal credit bureaus, so they don’t help your personal score. I wanted the best of both worlds ..... rewards and personal score growth.

I had a Florida payday loan from 2011. In 2019, got a call saying they’d file charges unless I paid. Total bluff. Threatening arrest for debt is illegal in the U.S. unless it’s something like unpaid taxes or child support.

You might also want to talk to a bankruptcy attorney just to see if it makes sense. Not saying you should file, but understanding all your options can help. Sometimes, debt settlement or DMPs still leave you with high interest payments, whereas Chapter 7 or 13 could give you a clean slate...

I think the bigger risk is that paying in advance can make a landlord feel like you’re desperate, and desperate people sometimes get taken advantage of. Just keep your eyes open and do your research.

If you’re planning a career move soon, maybe focus on having a strong explanation ready instead of waiting years. If you can show consistent repayment, that speaks volumes.